Several years ago at the request of a customer, I made my first set of custom fitted ivory grips for the Mameluke sword carried by US Marine officers.  Since then, I have completed a number of them in both ivory and Corian^®, an acrylic used for counter tops.  Either material is much more durable than the styrene plastic handles I have seen on most swords. See prices for replacement grips at the bottom of this page.

Scrimshaw can be done on ivory grips. Just about anything that can fit into the limited spaces between, above and below the star screws and pommel eye are possible, including Acanthus designs similar to the blade etching, lettering, Marine Corps logo, sailing ships, aircraft, or other designs.  I will put together a design and send you photos of what it will look like.  Scrimshaw is priced on an hourly basis - inquire if interested.

Assembly / Disassembly

All I need (and want) to produce hand-fitted grips is the brass handle, star screws, and pommel eye screw.  There are postal regulations restricting the shipment of assembled weapons. I have found the most useful tools for assembling and disassembling the handle are two new pencils.  Their erasers are just the right size to fit into the pommel eye, and they grip the surface without marring. They can also be used to unscrew the star screws. In either case, have someone else hold the handle, and insert or press the erasers onto the screws on both sides, and turn in opposite directions. If the screw is stubborn, you can use some Liquid Wrench to help loosen it. If that doesn't work and the handle is cracked or broken anyway, carefully cut or break away the plastic around each screw until you can grip both screw ends with a pliers, padded with duct tape to prevent damaging the brass.

When replacing screws, rub the threads on a candle before screwing them together. This not only lubricates them so they screw together more easily, but will make them easier to unscrew when you want to polish the brass.  I recommend removing both the ivory and Corian^® grips before cleaning the brass because the dark residue can possibly stain, the ammonia in Brasso can dull the ivory surface, and any liquid that leaks into the handle center can corrode the screws, making the sword harder to take apart.

Star Screws and Pommel Eye Screw

The grips are held in place by these three screws. The pommel eye screw (shown at right) is pretty straightforward - male and female screw halves, with a shoulder to secure the handle. Use the erasers of two new pencils inserted into the conical holes to tighten or loosen.

The star screws come in several different models, depending on the age and manufacturer of the sword.  The oldest and newest models have a two-piece star screw, similar to the pommel eye screw. The shank of the female side is approximately the size of the hole in the brass handle.

Swords made between about 1960 and 1980 usually have a 4-piece star screw set. The barrel screws together like the above type, but has a screwdriver slot on either side to facilitate tightening. The star screw top resembles a carpet tack, and screws into the barrel.  Replacement sets like this are no longer available. A rare variant on this has a snap-on star cap instead of a screw-on.

The flat sides of two pencil erasers pressed into the star screws on either side can be used to tighten and loosen either type of star screw.

If your pommel eye screw or star screws are damaged or can't be removed, I can replace them with the newer model.  They come direct from the present sword manufacturer through the Marine Shop at Quantico.  Their price is $30 for two pairs of star screws, and $15 for a pommel eye screw. I only charge $6 above these prices to cover their shipment to me.

Comparison of Styrene, Corian^® and Ivory grips

Original styrene plastic: These look nice to begin with, but are mass-produced and don't fit perfectly. You may catch your glove on the little "ears" on the blade end, and there may be a noticeable lip along the joint with the brass part of the handle.  In addition, they get brittle and can discolor with age, and seemingly minor impact can crack or shatter them, because they are hollowed out in back and about 1/8 inch thick.

My replacement grips are custom fitted to each handle - there are several handle sizes and styles, and each handle is unique.

Corian^®: This acrylic material is tough, stain-resistant, and used for countertops. Plexiglas^® and dentures are also acrylic. It will not discolor, and can stand abuse. I use an off-white shade that looks a lot like ivory, but without the grain. It cannot be scrimshawed if you intend to use the sword. I charge $200 plus $10 shipping for handles made of this material.

Ivory: This is the original and traditional material used for Mameluke sword handles. I use pre-ban elephant ivory, brought into the U.S. before 1993. I purchase it from a reputable dealer that I have worked with for over 30 years. It is also a very durable material, but unlike Corian^©, it expands and contracts slightly with changes in humidity, so it should be kept in an environment with little humidity fluctuation. It should also not be kept in a place where it receives regular, extended periods of direct sunlight; this can craze and eventually crack the ivory.  It will yellow with time; this will happen faster if it is regularly handled with bare hands, because it absorbs skin oils. Ivory can be scrimshawed with any design you can come up with. I charge $600 plus $10 for shipping for ivory handles; scrimshaw is extra. The reason for the difference in price is twofold: the material cost is approximately $300, and it takes substantially longer to work.

If you are interested in having me make a pair of grips for you, please e-mail me (below), or contact me by mail or phone - I won't put it on this web page due to privacy concerns, but my contact information can be found in the December 2009 Leatherneck Magazine on Page 10, where one of my satisfied customers wrote a letter to the editor.

E-mail Mark:

Ivory handle made by me for the sword of
Maj. Gen. Matthew Horner, on display
at the Marine College in Quantico VA.

Scrimshawed ivory handles. Acanthus designs to match etchings on blades,
as well as other designs are possible.

Corian^® handle. Notice that all three of these handles are different shapes and sizes.

Pommel eye screw halves

Older model two-piece star screw; new star screw sets have a deeper shoulder.

Four-piece star screw sets. Star screw tops screw into the barrel after it is installed.